Study Tour #1: Day three: Adjö!... almost.

02 July 2012, Monday

(Adjö = goodbye.)

the skylights underneath the fountain above in Sergels Torg.

After having the first half of the day to ourselves in lovely Stockholm, it was time to resume the study tour once again with the rest of our class. So we meet in front of the Kulturhuset at Sergels Torg, where another case study presentation was given, followed by an hour to sketch the living hell out of the public square (Sergels Torg) and surrounding (urban) architecture. After about the second sketch, I give up and go to the Design Torget store to wander. I met a few others in that store, too. It's no secret that sketching isn't a hobby for many of us. Even if we are designers. And especially when it is forced upon us.

After our "sketching hour" we meet again in front of the Kulturhuset to have lunch on the rooftop (thankfully paid by DIS... well, not quite, since our tuition/fees packages everything up nicely). It was getting rather chilly- appropriate for such Scandinavian weather; at least I was able to enjoy the sun's warmth for a day and a half. Lunch was incredible: salad, salmon, pasta, potatoes, and bread. As simple as the food might seem anywhere in Scandinavia- it is some of the best food I have ever had. Probably its just the "grass is greener on the other side" concept to foreign things. On second thought, I'm 90% sure it is that. Wait, let's break that 90% down:
It is about 50% of the foreign food aspect
and about 40% because of my tight budget and the limited food items I buy with it while travelling.

And it really looks like food that Ikea would serve, just better.

Millesgarden, looking towards Stockholm.

After lunch, we make our way, via our tour bus, to the Millesgarden, a former property/residence of a Swedish sculpture artist. And guess what- we sketched some more. Beautiful property, beautiful view of Stockholm, beautiful late afternoon sun. We had a sketchbook review on site, so we all passed our books around the circle of students. But it was apparent that some (most) students didn't care because some students would accumulate up to 5 sketch books at a time because others would just, literally, flip the pages and pass them along. I understand the pain though. After just a few sketchbooks, you're tempted to take out a lighter underneath the tender pages of each sketchbook. I'm not joking.

We had just one  more site to visit. One more before boarding the ferry to Finland. I could taste the mist of the Baltic Sea. Last stop: the Stockholm Public Library (Stadsbiblioteket), as designed by the Swedish architect Gunnar Asplund. Our enthusiasm about Stockholm had already reached negative levels, and all of us were ready for that ferry bound for Finland. The case study was presented for the library, we all sketched- or bummed out- for an hour, a few took 'sketching' lessons from a fellow classmate (she had a very unique touch to sketching), and then we all boarded the bus headed off to the ports.

Stockholm Public Library 

We didn't know the amount food that was awaiting us on the ferry.
We didn't know- or rather, we didn't yet comprehend- the amount of architecture by Aalto that awaited us in Finland.

Adjö Sverige!... for now.

Study Tour #1: Day Three: Vasa, Saluhall, and a Hairband

02 July 2012, Monday

As relaxing as day three seemed on our schedule, it wasn't. I made more sandwiches "to go" during breakfast for a snack later on. Since I spent the last of my monies the day before on pizza and (non-alcoholic) beer, I decided to stick to my sandwiches.

The first half of the day's activities were completely optional- either we could go to the Vasa Museum (Vasamuseet) and/or the Museum of Spirits (no it isn't about ghosts, its about alcohol). As much talk as I was hearing about many students wanting to do their own thing away from Vasa and the Museum of Spirits, the majority of us ended up going to the Vasa Museum (first activity of the day). Rather than taking the metro to the Vasa, the bus drove us in- and I think that is why most of the students decided to go to the Vasa rather than try to navigate the metro.

The Vasa Museum houses- wait for it- the Vasa. It was a ship that took sail on the 10th of August of 1628, but sank after sailing a mere 1300 meters (for some of you, that means 1.3 kilometers or 0.8 miles). I think I maneuvered the museum somewhat backwards, because I had no idea that this ship sank on its maiden voyage. I just thought it was a well preserved ship that sank in battle like most ships of that age. I wish there was a way to board this ol' ship. But the closest I got on board were the interactive displays and mock-up 1:1 models of portions of the Vasa. Overall, it was still very impressive. I got a small coffee mug out of it from the gift shop, too- a quest that my dad had me on in every country I visited during my European journey.

A group of us met up during the end of the Vasa visit because about half of us wanted to opt out of the Spirits museum in lieu of going to the Saluhall- a market hall in central Stockholm. We all took a small walking trek to central Stockholm towards Saluhall- make that a pilgrimage for gourmet Swedish food. Although I wasn't planning on buying anything, my eyes wanted to taste the visual candy of colors and textures, and my nose wanted to sample the savoury and sweet smells of the foods of the market hall. Secretly I was hoping that this market hall would be a normal market with fruits and veggies on the dime, but alas it was not. It might have been that in it's beginnings, but now it has been converted into a market hall of gourmet and exotic coffees, cheeses, meats, chocolates, confections, and seafood. After taking endless photographs of food that my budget didn't allow for, I joined the rest of my class for lunch. While they lunched on salmon dishes, prosciutto sandwiches, meats and cheeses, macaroons, etc, I busted out my DIY sandwich from the hostel- all while discussing how our dogs were.

this is called food porn. located at the Saluhall.

If it was up to me, day three would have been reserved exclusively for Skansen. Talk about a cultural package in one location! But unfortunately Skansen was never an option.

But now we had to drag ourselves to our lunch location- despite the fact that many of us just had a bite to eat- to the Kulturhuset- in the middle of the shopping district and where the hustle and bustle of Stockholm really takes place. But along the way, we stopped by many places because (1) one girl was looking for flip flops to wear in the shower, (2) another girl found a department store that was founded by her best friend's grandfather (or something like that), and (3) I misplaced my hairband, and it was a windy day to be wearing bangs, so I was looking for one wherever I could. But upon arriving at the Sergels Torg (the plaza were the Kulturhuset is housed), I spotted a holy H&M across and quickly beat the crowd around the area to make it inside, focusing all of my attention to the accessories department.

I found one. And on sale. All for about 6 Kroner (~ $1!). Scrapped whatever change I found, thank God my bangs got under control after that.

Study Tour #1: Day Two: Stockholm Wanderlust

@ the Arkitekurmuseet portion of the Moderna Museet

01 July 2012, Sunday

After we all re-grouped after spending some time in Gamla Stan, we walked over to the Modern Museum/Arkitekurmuseet (Moderna Museet) to admire the artwork, but most importantly, to study the architectural conditions of the building's architecture: which meant that we had to sketch. Again. There were some interesting exhibitions, and there were some WTF exhibitions, like Yoko Ono's (orgasms and butt cheeks, etc...). I saw everything that the museum offered because last time I visited, I didn't pay admission, which meant I only went to the free exhibition (the Arkitekurmuseet) and the gift shop. I like to treat gift shops like museums because their posters and postcards are like miniature versions of the actual artwork the museum has on exhibition. Close enough, right?

Scandinavians LOVE to tan. 

Next stop: the new sustainable development of Stockholm: Hammarby Sjöstad. I couldn't believe that there was a lot more left to our 2nd day of the study tour. I felt extremely rushed in this portion of the tour because we had a little over one hour to discuss the area as a group, to sketch, and to have lunch in the area. It was a beautiful area- a good break from the medieval/baroque/classical architecture that surrounded us in the historical areas of the city. After a few of us picked up lunch from a Middle Eastern establishment, we took our food and found a lovely little place between apartment buildings that had foliage and little fountains where children were weaving themselves in and out of the water spouts and streams. We all intentionally left out sketching because food was more important than drawing, especially on such a tight schedule. Although our conversations were all about architecture, it was still better than sketching.

left: Resurrection Chapel by Sigurd Lewerentz
right: Woodland Cemetery grounds. 

Last stop of the study tour: the Woodland Cemetery. This cemetery is surprisingly part of UNESCO, and I could see why. Made up of a lot of chapels scattered across the park, we had three case study presentations (Resurrection Chapel, Woodland Chapel, and the Holy Cross Chapel). We also passed by Greta Garbo's burial site. I'll admit I didn't know who she was, and when I asked a fellow classmate who was awed by the shear presence of a gravestone with her name on it, she simply stated, "Its Greta Garbo!". Which didn't help in explaining who she was. It was a pain trying to sketch ferociously site to site with the little time we had outside the chapels and inside. The whole point of sketching is to capture the "essence", but I don't work that way, I have to capture the "essence" plus every other detail down to the last tree needle that has fallen onto the building's rooftop. That doesn't quite work for that type of sketcher.

The "academic" day was finally over and we had time to unwind a bit at the hostel. It also happened to be the day of the final game of the EuroCup, so everyone was making plans to watch it somewhere while having dinner and/or a drink. We ended up going somewhere nearby on the metro- all 30-some of us, and obviously not everyone agreed on a place to eat. Four of us decided to go to a pizza place because it was cheap. Remember, we are still in Scandinavia, which means high prices for anything and everything. The pizza was remarkably good, and I ate a whole small pizza, plus a slice more from 2 other classmates who decided to get another pizza but couldn't finish. Afterwards, we wanted to find a place to actually watch the game, so we met up with some other students who were getting food and drinks at an outdoor cafe/bar (there must be a name for this type of establishment). We got some drinks, and I got myself a non-alcoholic Bavaria 0,0% beer. I used the last of my Swedish Kroner that I had on me (I had saved a 20 Kroner bill back at the hostel). Trust me when I say that this was the best non-alcoholic beer I have ever had. A bit watered down, but so much better tasting than any other that I have tasted. I would have gotten a second if it wasn't for the lack of monies. (update: I looked up reviews on this Bavaria 0,0% lager, and it seems like for the beer enthusiast, it is a bad beer or choice. But for someone that doesn't drink and only chooses non-alcoholic choices when and if available, its one of the better ones... so far.)

I did not know who to root for since the Italians and the Spaniards have been a long time favorite for me. And they were playing each other now. But while observing the game, it was clear the Spain was the strongest player. Italy, too, but they weren't making a good game out of it. So Spain won and I was quite content with that. People flooded the streets coming out of the restaurants and bars, and it seemed that everything closed quite promptly after the game ended. I was also in Europe during the Eurocup in 2008, and Spain had won as well. Europe is definitely the place to be for football (soccer).

So it was back to the hostel for all of us, for another long, but flexible, day awaiting us the next day.

Study Tour #1: Day Two: Quaint Russian Affair in Gamla Stan

01 Junly 2012, Sunday

Breakfast at the hostel was nothing short of amazing. I would have never imagined such a meal at a hostel. But this was Scandinavia. They are experts at hospitality no matter where you are. I clearly took advantage of breakfast by making small sandwiches with whatever bread rolls, cold cuts, and veggies they had at the breakfast bar. Wrapped them in napkins and slipped them into my backpack. I would do this as a 21-year old while studying in Italy. We especially got in trouble for that when we were in Sorrento, but that never stopped us. And it still obviously hasn't. Saves money on snacks and sometimes a meal!

First stop was Gamla Stan ("Old Town"): it is an island that rests primarily on the Stadsholmen Island, but it includes other islets of Riddarholmen and Helgeandsholmen. The part of town dates back all the way to the 13th century and is made up of medieval alleyways, beautifully cobbled streets that make it just a little difficult to walk on, and North German architecture- which is pretty dominant around the city square- Stortoget.

And in Stortoget is where we began our long, busy, day. It was presented as a case study by a pair of students, then we were allotted about an hour to sketch the square and/or its surroundings. I sat myself down on a bench in the middle of the square near a fountain and decided to sketch the building tops instead of doing a sketch of "urban studies"- which was supposed to be the focus of our sketches. Being from an architectural background, I just can't help it.

that's all I sketched for my time in Gamla Stan.

While I was sketching, a Russian tour group, primary of students, were occupying the square, attentively listening to their guide. A group of girls broke away and came my way, watching me sketch for a minute before breaking the silence in broken English. They were very nice girls, trying to make friendly conversation in the best English they had, for practice I assume. They asked if I was an architect and why I was sketching. I asked who they were, and they were traveling Scandinavia with their class (9-10 year olds). They seemed more interested learning about me and where I was from, it was hard asking them a question and getting a reply back, but later all I got out of them was that they were from St. Petersburg. And they seemed very amazed at the fact that I was a Californian. As soon as they tried to initiate more conversation with me, their guide briskly came up to them, said something in Russian, turned to me, and said "Thank you very much!" as she shook my hand, then quickly hurried the girls away with the rest of their group.

i found the Cube (by Park Associati)!

I honestly prize those few moments I have with foreigners who make their best efforts to practice a language with another.

After the girls left, the square just seemed too dull, so I wandered off to see what else I can enjoy of Gamla Stan with the rest of the hour. I met up with two other classmates, and we continued to wander before we had to meet up again as a group. It was beautiful weather, and unusually warm. Copenhagen was beginning to seem like a miserable, depressing, place because of its weather, while the rest of Scandinavia, it seemed, was getting all the best weather. Although not a fan of the sun or hot weather, I was enjoying this part of the world's warmth under the same bright sun.

Study Tour #1: Day One : Hej Sverige!

It has definitely been a while since my last entry, and I should probably stop procrastinating so much on blogging about my whereabouts and travels. As much as I tell myself that I have no time, I definitely do judging by the amount of movies I watch at home, or the amount of time I spend on facebook. Oh the wonders of the modern world.... 

holding on while on the Stockholm metro.

30 June 2012, Saturday

It's time for Study Tour #1: Sweden and Finland!
When applying for DIS, we had a choice of going to either Sweden/Norway or Sweden/Finland for our first study tour. I was ever so glad I chose to go to Finland instead of Norway, because I discovered how expensive Norway was when I was there for just 3 days. Although our program "pays" for some meals and gives us credit for maybe a lunch or two (it eventually comes out of the tuition/fees we pay...), I would have rather spent it on a new country- in this case Finland. I had visited Sweden before (only Stockholm) a few years back in 2008 when I did a short Scandinavian visit between Stockholm and Denmark.

The great thing about these study tours- aside from the endless mandatory sketching- was that you go off the beaten path of the tourist (student or typical). These sites were actually part of the case studies done by various groups during the first week of the summer program. The best part: we present our case studies on site. How cool is that? As an architect, that is like making love to a building. Seriously. That explained why I had the Holy Cross Chapel in Finland. And trust me with all your heart when I say that the Scandinavians definitely know how to beautifully design chapels and funeral homes/crematoriums.

I'll make this more of a photo journal, since I don't want to be over-wordy with my entry this time. But I will say that upon arriving in Stockholm, my hostel roommates decided to take their sweet time unpacking a bit and freshening up, despite the fact that we were specifically told that we were to drop off our items and meet outside the hostel to walk as a group to where we were to have dinner. So we missed going with the group. I went with only one of my hostel roommates- no idea where the other was. So we go off with the best of my knowledge of Stockholm from 4 years past. We were mapless. All I knew is that dinner was somewhere in Gamla Stan, somewhere on the western portion of the island- it was merely from memory from the program booklet we had received at the beginning of the trip. So we found a metro- and the only way we found a metro is because I spotted it from the bus as we were approaching the hostel.
Long story short, we made it to the restaurant for dinner. We actually beat the large group, which resulted in the restaurant telling us that there was no school group dinner that night. Liars... or rather that one employee we spoke to was misinformed. But we made it in the end, eventually returning to that restaurant aboard a boat, pretty determined that it was there. Because it was. I guess that trip in 2008 was meant to be. It helped me navigate our way to food!

taking a ferry from Helsingør (Denmark) to Helsingborg Habor, Sweden)

a sculpture near the Helsingbord Havnefront

The beautiful St. Petri Kyrka by Sigurd Lewerentz

Lunch stop @ Gränna, Sweden- known for its stripped candy sticks. Very good candy sticks. I had to buy 3 . I brought lunch from home.

taking the metro in Stockholm. 

Lessons Learned #4: Scandinavian Design Stores

Here's a tip:
When traveling with a group, DO NOT point out awesome looking design-forward stores. Otherwise, half of you, or more, will be either:
(a) waiting outside for what seems to be an eternity (just hope it is summer, or not raining)
(b) wandering aimlessly inside the store
(c) pouting about how much you want to buy everything but can't afford it

But if you are in a small group, or all of you guys are BFFs or the equivalent, go right ahead and enjoy yourselves.

That's it.
Just remember that I warned you. I've made this mistake twice already. Not much of a "lesson learned", huh?