13 July 2012

Moscow Museums, etc.

You could only expect a 865 year old city that is 970 square miles- or 2,510 square kilometers- to contain many museums. I was definitely left tired of museums or churches or galleries, but it all was part of the cultural experience. It's fortunate that most of Moscow accepts any student ID card- it does not have to be that wretched ISIC card. Here is a run down of some that I saw there:

State Museum of Mayakovskii 

This was the first museum I visited while in Moscow, and it was a total "WTF" museum. All I knew going into the museum was that he was a Russian playwright/poet. But this museum was a metaphysical mess. I definitely left more confused than going in; the museum made me think he was more of an artist than just a playwright or poet. I was beginning to think that the museum should put a warning on the door, recommending to bring a little weed or something to help with the experience. I felt that it was a mess of a collaboration between Giorgio de Chirico and Vladimir Mayakovsky- which obviously was not the case, but it sure did feel like it. 

Skippable? Yes. Mind-tripping museum? YES.





The Pushkin Museum of Fine Arts
This was a complete 180 from the previous museum visited (Mayakovskii). It is your usual classical museum: filled with art from the Greeks and Egyptians, Medieval, Renaissance, etc. Unfortunately only the titles of the pieces were translated into English, while the descriptions remained solely Russian (but that would actually apply to virtually all museums). What actually disappointed the most me was the rather large collection of sculptures, about 90% of them copies. This museum would be perfect for those seeking a collection of sculptures to sketch and study, not for those seeking an original, historical, sculpture collection. The highlight of this museum was the architectural model of the proposed expansion of the Pushkin Museum, which was entirely made of transparent acrylic and lit with LEDs throughout. I was highly tempted to sneak a photograph of the model, but for some reason, there was high security around it. 
Around the model. 
Not the paintings.
Security personnel with the typical Russian pokerface surrounded the model like hounds. I didn't even have to think twice. I just took a mental photograph. 

Skippable? Depends if you are a classical art fanatic. 

The Cathedral of Christ the Savior 
(Храм Христа Спасителя)

While not an old church like say, St. Basil's, this church still has had it's battles with history in the last 200 years. When little Napoleon retreated from Moscow, Emperor Alexander I declared his intention to build a church  "to signify Our gratitude to Divine Providence for saving Russia from the doom that overshadowed Her" and as a memorial to the sacrifices made by the Russian people. Then some years later, it was built, and again some years later Stalin comes around and decides to tear it down to build the "Palace of the Soviets". It was never built, so that torn down site became the world's largest open-air swimming pool.
So... a cathedral lost itself to the communists, and the communists lost it's palace from lack of funding- and this all became the world's largest open-air swimming pool. Never would have guessed. 
The Cathedral was eventually rebuilt starting in 1990 and consecrated in 2000.


Skippable? No. As 'new' as it is, it is worth a visit. It's free anyway. It's briefly mentioned in Doctor Zhivago, too (the book).

Borodino Panorama Museum


Located east of Poklonnaya Hill, this museum is about the Patriotic War of 1812- where little Napoleon wanted to take Russia (amazing that Hitler didn't learn from Napoleon many years later. Never mess with Russia). As an American, I learned very little about this war during my European History course in high school. Going into the museum (and being a little history buff myself), I actually felt a little ignorant of this war. Nonetheless it was a good learning experience, and the museum in itself was quite impressive with it's good collection of art of the subject matter, military costumes, equipment, etc. The museum wouldn't be complete with the main exhibition: a 360 panorama of the Battle of Borodino. Boyfriend actually recommended this museum some time ago because many years ago as a child, he paid a visit to this museum, and as a little Russian boy, I guess it left quite the impression on him. 


Skippable? Not for the history buff. But unfortunately if you want to take photos inside, you must purchase a ticket to do so. 


The Kremlin

Considered to the heart of Moscow, this complex contains 4 palaces and 4 churches. It also serves as the official residence of the President of the Russian Federation. When I visited, they were actually dismantling some event tents because Putin decided to have a party to commemorate Russia Day the day before. Standing in line to get tickets to acquire admission into the Kremlin was confusing. Although the admission prices were listed on the window outside the ticket office (church visit, armory visit, diamond exhibition visit....too many separate admissions!), the ticket-teller actually told us that we could get into the Kremlin free with student I.D. or other acceptable forms of I.D. Excited of free admission, I could see myself running all over the Kremlin grounds like a little girl in a flower field. But after battling yet another never-ending crowd of Chinese tourists, I was finally inside and it was definitely not what I had expected. The complex was quite an open expanse of smooth stone roads with historical and newer buildings sharing the same boundaries. Where the public was allowed was only a small section of the Kremlin, and looking at the older palaces of Catherine the Great, I felt like 'defecting' to the other half of the complex. Again, staring into the pokerfaces of the security guards prevented me from doing so.


We tried to go into the churches on the half of the Kremlin that we were in, but we found out that our 'free' tickets only admitted us onto the property, not the churches. At that point I didn't care about visiting another church. At least I can say that I had visited the Kremlin, right? And seen a super-huge bell? And a huge canon?


Skippable? Unless you visit the armory and actually pay admission.

St. Basil's Cathedral

This is perhaps the most iconic of Moscow's buildings. It actually also marks the geometric center of Moscow Because of the summer season, it was overrun by tourists. Who am I to say- I was technically a tourist myself. Erected under orders from Ivan the Terrible in 1555-61, this cathedral contains 8 side churches around the center church (the 9th), and a 10th church was built in 1588 over St. Basil's grave. And yes, he is still there. 
This is not your typical church. 
No nave. No transept. No arcade. 
Its just a whole bunch of chapels connected by beautiful, winding, dark, hallways. It is a labyrinth of narrow vaulted corridors, all of which are painted with ornamental floral murals. 

Skippable? DEFINITELY NOT. Seriously, don't even think twice. Looking at it isn't enough. You have to go inside.  
(Any by the way, don't pay the photography fee because unlike everywhere else, no one is watching you here.)

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